Face shield

Updated 05.11.20 at 23:20 PST

We have tried out two different versions of this shield:

  1. 3D Printed:  if you have access to a 3D printer, you can make a 3D printed frame – details of the design that has been clinically reviewed are here.  Additional versions are hereNote: learn how to donate your 3D printed visors to Seattle Makers so we can distribute them to the community and local health care professionals, here.
  2. Neoprene:  this version uses thick neoprene to create space between the shield and your face – details here.

If you live in the Seattle area, both options are available for free (as supplies and funding allow) – you just need to fill out this form.  If you are able to cover the costs of your products, please donate here.

Shield + 3D printed frame

We have tried several iterations of a 3D printed frame for a face shield and are moving forward with this NIH-approved version.

IMPORTANT:  For individuals or organizations 3D printing face shields, please see this site on how to do it safely.

This design is now live on the NIH 3D print website here.  This design has undergone review in a clinical setting and is recommended when fabricated as instructed.


05.11.20 Update:  We have received donated plastic and are now looking for donated prints of the reduced-material model shown here so we can provide them for workers in lower risk environments, and reserve the visor face shields for medical staff.  Thank you for your contributions!

If you’re interested in donating your 3D printed visors to Seattle Makers so we can distribute them to the community and local health care professionals, all you need to do is:

  1. Read the recommendations on how to fabricate hygienically
  2. 3D print the design described below
  3. Follow the steps to make your donation safe
  4. Drop off or mail your donation to the makerspace



PET and PLA are the official approved filament types for hospitals, but we are delivering to many other service workers. If you’re donating your visor to us, label it clearly with the material you used and we’ll get it to the right channel for distribution.


The size of the design’s footprint on the printer bed is 201mm x 210mm.

If you need to wear this face shield over eye loupes or other eye-wear, this version has approximately 1.5″ clearance in front of the eye.  If you need additional clearance, see the designs with added extensions here.


You can optimize your print by using a 0.6mm head, increasing layer height to 0.35mm.  We don’t want to make too many other changes that could impact the tested and approved version.


The official CAD and STL file repository going forward is here.


For folks who are donating 3D printed parts, you don’t have to worry about providing the shield or elastic as we’re handling that here at the makerspace.  BUT, if you want to make a complete face shield yourself, we recommend the following materials:

  • 1″ elastic (though this, and other sizes of elastic, are increasingly hard to find)
  • swim goggle strap + zip tie
Swim Goggles

With a looming elastic shortage, Nathaniel Nichols realized a need and spearheaded a drive for goggles from swimmers.  He received 100s of google straps and donated them in the nick of time as we ran out of our elastic stock.  Apparently avid swimmers stock up on goggle straps and Nathaniel’s network had loads to spare.

Nathaniel dropping off swim goggle straps at the makerspace.

So many goggle straps! Thanks for the donation, Nathaniel!

Compared to using goggles for their intended purpose (i.e. creating a water tight seal), using goggle straps for a face shield requires far less tension.  Consequently, we were able to stretch (we’re so sorry) the supply and make two face shields from a single goggle strap.

After several approaches, a zip tie turned out to be the best attachment method.

We used a peg pounded into a board to aid in adding the zip tie.

We wrapped the goggle strap around a peg that sticking out of a board, and then attached the zip tie to bind the two ends together (as shown in the image above).  The excess zip tie was then trimmed with a pair of wire cutters.


Design That Matters has put together these instructions on how to assemble the face shield.  More details on the design are also available here.


Design That Matters has put together these instructions for cleaning the face shield.


Note: The following versions have the same filament, elastic attachment, shield material, assembly, and cleaning as described above.

For Use with Loupes

If you work with loupes and need more space between the mylar shield and your face, we have designed two different versions of the medical face shield with visor.

1″ extension

To print these yourself, use this file.

1.5″ extension

To print these yourself, use this file.

For lower-risk essential workers

For lower-risk essential workers, we are now taking donated prints of this version of the face shield 3D print.  We are going to provide these to workers in lower risk environments, and reserve the visor face shields for medical staff.  This version uses less 3D printing material and is faster to print so we churn these out faster.

The file for this version of the face shield 3D printed part is here.

Note: this version is NOT approved by the NIH for clinical use.

Shield + Neoprene

We have designed a face shield from mylar sheets, elastic, EVA foam, duct tape, and staples.

Update:  Our face shield design was not approved for medical use. We will be assembling our current stock and selling and distributing these to the community and organizations in need so we can recoup our costs and reduce the spread of disease. 

Let us know if you need a face shield, or know a hospital, grocery store, shelter, or other organization in need.  We will have them available for purchase in our online store shortly.

You can support us here. And here’s how to make them:



The mylar sheets are sourced from TAP Plastics and can be ordered online from McMaster-Caar. The polyester film rolls are 40” wide, and come in 10- or 25-foot lengths. They can be purchased in .007 inch or .01 inch thickness.  Laser-cut to shape, either will work.

We cut our mylar with our Black Cat 90 Watt laser cutters.  The .svg file for the laser-cut mylar shield is here. The shield is 320mm wide x 215mm high. After breaking a few, we modified the slots for elastic for maximum strength (ovoid vs. square corners).  Square slots tore too easily when put under stress from the elastic band.


For the forehead cushion, thick neoprene will create a comfortable seal against the forehead. The neoprene is much easier to sanitize than porous foam used in other models. We laser-cut 200mm x 35mm rectangles of neoprene.  The file for a single rectangle is here, the file for a full sheet of 40 is here.  The full sheet file is 560mm x 560mm and fits on the usable portion of the 24″ x 24″ interlocking neoprene floor mats.

Note:  When laser cutting 40 from a full sheet, we noticed that some of the cuts began to melt.  To give the material time to cool down, we cut all horizontal cuts first (in blue in the svg file) and then all vertical cuts (in red in the svg file).

Double-sided tape

We attach the neoprene to the mylar using simple double-sided tape.  The tape is effective because it’s just holding the neoprene in place when the wearer has taken the shield off.  When the wearer is wearing the shield, the elastic applies pressure between the neoprene and the mylar, holding it in place.  A big shout out to Shari at ontimesupplies.com for expediting our shipment of tape.


For the adjustable and, we have updated our design to reduce elastic use, and are now stapling 325mm lengths of elastic bands to either side of the mask, through duct tape reinforced corners.  We used a 1” knitted elastic band from Joann fabrics.  You can substitute for other bands, but we recommend ¾” or wider.  You may need to adjust the slots in the mylar if you change the size of the band. In a pinch you could also tie the mask to your head with shoelaces or twine.

Duct tape

We reinforced the corners of the mylar shield with duct tape where we stapled the elastic.  Without the duct tape, the staples tore the mylar.


We attached the elastic to the mylar shield with regular staples.


Attaching the neoprene to the shield
  1. Laser cut the mask out of mylar with the provided template (.svg file is here).
  2. Laser cut the neoprene (single template .svg file is here, x40 template .svg file is here).
  3. Place the mylar mask on the table with the inside of the mask facing up, and the bottom of the mask toward you. You might want to weigh down the top corners to prevent it from curling up.
  4. Place the neoprene down with the textured side up, and put two strips of double sided tape onto the neoprene.
  5. Note: Other adhesives and/or glues could work, this was quick and easy and had plenty of hold strength for our needs. You can also buy neoprene that comes in self-adhesive strips.
  6. Flip the neoprene over sticky-side down, and line it up with the top of the mask.
  7. Holding the left and right sides, bend it down in the middle and stick it to the mask.
  8. Bring the mask up to the curved foam. Press firmly for 10 seconds.
Attaching the elastic to the shield

Watch the video on how to attach the elastic.  Written instructions are below.

  1. Measure 325 mm of elastic band and cut.
  2. Thread the elastic band from the back, through to the front of the mask. Pull it around the front, and thread back through the opposite side.
  3. Overlap the elastic and test to ensure a secure fit.
  4. Hold the elastic at the correct length and staple in place.
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